DIY ARCHERY QUIVER SHAPING UPDATE
DIY ARCHERY QUIVER SHAPING SKIN

This is the front, it took about 20 minutes to get it to shape, I just used hand pressure to hold the leather in place while it set. The triangular bit of waste at the bottom right is used to make one layer of the suspension lugs. Transfer the patterns to the leather and cut out the shapes. Progress has been slow, because the embossed and moulded parts need me in the workshop making the moulds. Rinse, repeat, rinse a couple more times. It’s been like this since December, we get 3-5 hot days followed by two relatively cooler days in the low 30s. We took the thermometer out there in the last heatwave and it got to 57°. That’s my workshop, right in the middle of the purple bit to the west of Sydney. It took the dye properly and I was able to do the seam that holds it all together. I had to hurriedly make a new one from some different leather. I tried water-, spirit-, and oil-based dyes and none of them worked.

The narrow bit needs a little work, I had to rewet it and gently work it into shape.Īnd discover that this piece of leather won’t take darker brown dye. Fold, stitch, do the back seam and put a roll of leather in the top ring. You may need to skive the edge, depending on how thick the leather is. The original has this edge folded and stitched. When the leather is dry, peel it off.Ĭut off the spare bits, leaving enough to fold up along the bottom edge. I’ve used this technique on costrels before. Case the leather, lay it over the design, clamp in place and work through from the back with a bone or wooden folder. The red stuff is car putty, I had a few problems with tear-outs. The mould was just a plank of radiata pine with the appropriate bits carved out and a ridge added to the the narrow bit near the top. I hit this with three good coats of dye and while that dried, made the mould for the collar. It’s 35 degrees C inside, I’m sweating like the proverbial and I’m stitching with steel needles, pulling them through the leather layers with a pair of 19th century steel lasting pliers and my stupidly salty sweat starts pulling iron ions from the tools and transferring them to the leather, where they react to form perfect, black stained ferric tannate fingerprints. Wrapping the core in unwaxed kitchen paper provided a low-friction layer and stopped the leather from getting stuck. I found as I went that the quiver tightened on the wooden core.

DIY ARCHERY QUIVER SHAPING SKIN

The stitches go from the skin side on the back, out the edge, through both layers of the piping, through the edge of the front and out the skin side. Attaching the back was the same as attaching the lower front piece.

DIY ARCHERY QUIVER SHAPING UPDATE

I think we should all view this update as a learning experience, or several. The errata found that I’d misread the German, while it was early enough to do something about it.

So.When we left at the end of the previous episode, we’d just started assembling the front parts and the hanging tabs. Their recommendation: use a tap and dye set to add threads to the second mounting hole, then attach the tight spot bracket there using slightly larger bolts. My local shop didn't have any ideas Tight Spot said they had heard of this before, but no real good options, and I finally called Axcel. I thought of getting a longer bolt and mounting both the quiver bracket and the sight through the same hole, but didn't like that idea given that the sight bolt is tapered to give it a nice snug fit. I tried everything, using the range of the Tight Spot bracket, spinning the bracket 180 degrees, etc. So, when I mounted my Axcel Lanslyde in the first set of holes (not a carbon fiber picatinny bar), it meant that the threaded holes for the quiver mount pushed way back towards my string. See, I recently discovered that unlike most archers I see online, my accuracy is better if my sight housing is close to my bow, not far away, because I get less jumpy with my trigger finger. I am super excited about it, but was surprised when I first mounted my Tight Spot to learn that it stuck too far back past my string, making it incredibly awkward to get my release on the D Loop, let alone pull it back. I recently upgraded sights to an Axcel Landslyde.

Diy archery quiver shaping